Chinon - Candes St Martin - Montsorreay

Monday 14 September

Chinon – Candes St Martin- Montsoreay

We planned a more leisurely day, with no attempts to take in the splendour of another chateau. It’s not that we are sick of them, it’s just you need a bit of time to absorb the beauty and the wonder. So we headed off across the Vienne River to “the most beautiful villages in all of France”, as the landlady described, and so did the road signs. That’s a big call, but pretty close to the truth.
Candes - St Martin is nestled between the river and the cliffs of tuffeau stone (type of limestone). The houses are very pretty and beautifully maintained, with flower pots and window boxes full of gorgeous flowers. We wandered around and had coffee in a sweet little place that a charming man had set up for coffees in his backyard and we were invited in to view his “installation” which was a little room carved into the rock and housing collections of knick knacks and books. After the second strongest coffee I’d ever had we wandered back down the hill to a charming old church dedicated to St Martin (of Tours) who actually died there in bout 397 or 897, a long time ago. There were some ancient statues – pre medieval – and altogether a lovely place. More photos of St Therese – for some of you that will be significant! In various locations around the village, there were also three installations of statues depicting a marriage, confluence of rivers and culture (check the pictures). Very interesting.

Lunch was a picnic of cheese and baguettes, by the river and then on our way. Just out of the next village, Montsoreau, was a museum dedicated to troglodytes (cave dwellers, caves and MUSHROOMS). We were unable to pass that sort of exciting combination! The caves were dug out because the stone was quarried to build all the chateux around as well as St Paul’s cathedral, London, and then these fabulous spaces were used by local people to live in. In the late 19th century the caves were used to grow mushrooms, and a local cavalry was located nearby, so a happy confluence of location, supply, need and raw materials was taken advantage of. There are five kilometres of caves growing mushrooms, although we saw just 500 metres. Damp and dark and musty.

Onward again to Sureau, located on the Loire River. This town has a most gorgeous chateau perched up on the hill – looking just like something from a fairytale. We stopped by the river for a photo opportunity, of course.

Our homeward journey took us past the nuclear power station – a thrill for all of us – as we were unable to undertake a tour, due to insufficient advance notice and possibly terrorism. Back to the hotel for a rest before dinner.
Dinner was probably the most beautiful we have had. All local produce, local wines and an excellent waiter. Perfect really.