Chinon - Vezelay

Tuesday 15th September

Chinon – Vezelay

We left beautiful Chinon to head east to Vezelay. It was a long, long, journey. We had hoped to go to a “sound sculpture” installation in a cave in Loches, but when we got there, it was not open, and there were vehement warning signs not to enter, because if they did not know we had entered the cave, they could lock it up over night and we could be there for up to 15 hours, no phone, no light, no escape. We took the hint and had a coffee instead. Loches was another very pretty town with a chateau, towers and charming well presented buildings, looking like something Cinderella would be at home in.

Headed off and in St Florent-Sur-Loire, we stopped by its beautiful chateau, situated on the river, and had a picnic lunch – the obligatory baguettes and fromage (cheese rolls). Karol has a theory that a town that attaches its name to a river, as in St Florent Sur Loire, then it is surely a beautiful town. It is a theory that we will be putting to the test. Mary and Karol experienced their first squat toilets (repulsive). For an incredibly beautiful and picturesque town, the toilets really let them down.

Onward again, through some very beautiful towns, such as Charite Sur Loire (theory correct) and some very sad, ugly and suss places, such as Issundun – very industrial, surrounded by some very strange red and white pylons, and seemingly unpopulated by any living creatures. Very strange place.

Travel tip # 1: Petrol stations in France are very difficult to find and when you do, if it is between the hours of 12 and three, they are unlikely to be open. Be prepared to take advantage of fuel stops when you can. We drove quite a long way before we could find a petrol station that was open.
Onward again. Stopped in a little forested area for a nature break – am oak forest – very green and soft underfoot, and possibly growing truffles, although without a pig to sniff them out, we left untruffled.

Onward again, and after 8 hours driving we arrived in Vezelay, in the Borgogne region, central France. Vezelay has an old basilica dedicated to Saint Mary Magdalene. Apparently her body was brought after her death and the church still holds some of her relics. Pilgrims from all over Europe would converge at Vezelay before heading off on the pilgrim trail to Spain and then the Holy Lands. The Crusades were launched from here as well. There are old buildings housing several art galleries, restaurants and shops selling religious artefacts. It is an unusual combination of wealth, art and religion. Perhaps it is not so unusual. We had another lovely meal together and strolled through the old town before retiring.