Chinon & Villandry

Sunday, 13th September, Chinon (of Jeanne d’Arc) – Loire Valley on Vienne River.

This is paradise, what dreams are made of – or are they? A jewel of rustic antiquity, history just oozing at every corner, the weather was perfect ,the giant ancient plane trees rustling in the autumn breeze, the sun slowly warming up a giant river ambling along – as Mary and I started our foray, reconnaissance, exploration, investigation of this town. In order to burn off a few calories absorbed from the superb regional meal last night when as a bonus we learnt the real meaning of the word waiter – s/he who makes you wait . Yep it was a perfect autumn morning the dappled sunlight dancing off, reflecting off, bouncing off white stone leaves and water, an image caught on film a million times before and embedded in our memories of how a perfect day should start and at last we experience it. This is the place and time to be over any other place and time in the world right now immediately, just lovely. Ahh but is it? As we wandered up tiny little laneways between medieval houses and shops which have done more than just stand the test of time, nay the scene has improved with the passing of time – just amazing. And it gets better as we ascend past an old church with new matisse like slabs of stained glass windows from which emanated the voices of a choir practising to the sounds of an organ pumping away. This felt magically, surreally good – almost heavenly as we climbed higher and higher until we looked over the whole township of dark slate roofs pitched at cubist angles against the pale white stone walls bathed in warm sunlight. Too good. But where to now – when Mary reminded me of a large sculpture of Christ or Joan of Arc which overlooked and or blessed the people below. So we continued on our search. Along the way we visited a very well visited and lively cemetery and were moved by the tributes and exhortations against death: ceramic books opened at favourite poems. Stone bouquets of flowers, black granite with pictures of the passed, somehow engraved in photographic likenesses. And the sense of unreality continued to grow. We decided to end out search for the sculpture and head back into town for a coffee break, which we could do now without fear of being caught short as in Paris because this place also has public conveniences. Facilities, toilets call them what you will, ahh at last we were in an area which catered for our age group.

After our coffee and croissants we headed in the direction of the Chinon Fortress and Chateau back up the top of the hill, originally constructed to guard the Vienne River and control the passing trade. On the way up we bumped into Michael and Karol who encouraged us to take out time and have a good look at the battlements and building. And they were amazing. With perfect views up and down the river. But why build a castle with walls 2 metres thick on top of a very steep hill with sheer sides and vertical drops of 30 metres and then also demand a moat – methinks these dukes, barons, kings etc were a might paranoid maybe. And rightly so – because as it turns out someone as saintly as the mythic Jeanne of Arc was actually a revolutionary or counter relutionary of sorts and had to be captured and held prisoner in 1429 in the self same tower we were standing in and yes there is her toilet a hole in the floor with a 50metre drop. So there we have it history coming alive - or does it ? doubt has crept into my mind when I read a board that indicates the tower where Jeanne was held prisoner was rebuilt in 1824, 1904 and 1994(and how many times prior to 1824 i wonder) - then it dawned on me that this whole town has been rebuilt a number of times and that the French have got this tourist trade thing down pat. But all the same this would be a lovely place to retire and totally opposite to Miami.

In the afternoon Michael drove us all about 40km to the chateau Villandry – which a Finance Minister started in 1536 (are you thinking there may be something suspicious – imagine Bob Hawke or John Howard building something as grand as the Windsor for their own private residence with the Treasury Gardens as their own backyard but only 50 times more grand and decorative). It was lovely afternoon and the gardens included vegetable gardens laid out in 9 differing patterns including a labyrinth. There 7 different types of formal gardens in all and large water features and the woods for hunting in and all still in private hands! Then we came home and freshened up before heading out to savour some more of the regional cuisine.