Tuesday 13 October
Roma
The trip from Salerno to Rome was quite fascinating – we travelled around Mt Vesuvius, then along the coast to Naples. From Naples we went inland through and around and between mountains, back to the coast and at Latina came alongside the Via Appia, the ancient road leading to Rome. As we approached Rome we saw the remnants on ancient (Roman) walls and knew we were almost there. We arrived at Roma Termini, negotiated the underground rail network and resurfaced near the Vatican.
With great excitement we crossed St Peter’s Square, marvelled at the immensity of the Basilica, and the enormous queue waiting to go into it and found our accommodation – a lovely two bedroom apartment 300 metres from the back of the Vatican.
We settled in, updated with Michael and Karol and our experiences of our separate adventures, discussed plans for the next few days and set off on our initial exploratory tour of Rome. We wandered around, walked across St Peter’s again, walked around Castel S. Angelo, crossed the Tiber and found a place for dinner. No one has been able to recommend good restaurants in Rome. All the places in Italy we have stayed in have had fabulous local specialities and we have enjoyed the local cuisines, but no one has been able to suggest great places in Rome –any ideas? We stopped at a square that was very busy, with several restaurants, people promenading, musicians playing, couples dancing to the music, all very good, except we had the most ordinary meal of the trip so far. We hope that it gets better!
As we wandered back to the apartment, we passed through piazzas, with beautifully lit fountains, monuments and buildings. Everything is big and looks important! We are really looking forward to the next few days.
Friday, October 16, 2009
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
Our Amalfi Coast
Monday 12th October
Our Amalfi Coast
Today started out with a lovely big breakfast whilst watching the soccer show = the footy show – all of their counterparts were there: Lou Richards, Jack Dyer, Brian Taylor, etc – except the show seems to go 24 hours. Then we headed out to try our luck with the public transport system. Just a couple of observations: the conversion rate for Italian minutes = somewhere between 10 – 15 Aussie minutes, yep, Italian minutes are big, fat, lazy minutes – ya gotta love ‘em and do not depend on the signage – just ask and keep asking people “dove?” and “quando?” and eventually you get there.
We were in luck, our first and second connections timed perfectly – along the way we bought two x 6Euro bus & train 24hour coast passes which we used as follows: 22kilometre trip to Amalfi where 3rd connection(for the day) was waiting to take us 16kilometres to Positano and a further 17km to Sorrento (total time of trip from Salerno to Sorrento = 3hours) where we had a bite to eat before catching a ferry to Capri (the cost of the ferry to Capri was additional to our bus & rail pass) – then when we returned from Capri to Sorrento we caught a train to Pompeii, then connected with a minute to spare with a train back to Salerno and a final bus trip back to our hotel at about 9.45pm. A fantastic day – but the highlight for both of us was the incredible and spectacular 3hour bus ride which makes the Great Ocean Road look like an empty 6 lane highway.
Imagine a constantly twining road with endless blind turns - at which the bus driver hooted his approach on roads which were quite often too narrow for two vehicles to pass – so that either the bus or the other vehicle had to reverse until a wider or straighter patch of road could be found, with traffic controllers on walkie talkies to each other at about 20 spots along the way, taking it in turns to halt traffic from proceeding in one or the other direction, all happening high up steep vertical cliffs (sometimes 500ft up), sometimes on patches of roads which were wider than the natural footing allowed and Italian engineers had somehow built bridges and supports to allow the road to overlap into space a metre or so in some places, driven by obviously ex air-fighter pilots who had flown the absolute maximum number of bombing raids in one war or another and this was the closest they could get to the thrill of dodging enemy fire up in the air – the drivers were amazing, only ever slowing down to a crawl when they had less than a centimetre clearance on both sides (the rock face or cliff-drop and the other vehicle), they had absolutely no fear as they careered around corners sometimes in the rain (the bus nearly fish tailing around the bends) straight into the path of on-coming motorbikes/ vespers, cars, buses, bicyclists, pedestrians, whatever – the rule to stay on the right side of the road id disregarded (probably because there is not enough road for 2 vehicles in most places). However, after a while the beautiful amazing views of the Mediterranean and incredible buildings hanging onto the cliff faces were more enjoyable than leaning into every corner and banging on an imaginary horn in sync with the bus driver.
But the main lesson learnt today was that we have to take a chance and we took the chance that, in spite of some advice to the contrary, to go to Capri to see the Blue Grotto or Grotto Azzurro – however on arrival the ticket office was closed due to inclement weather and unfavourable conditions – no Blue Grotto today. So we took the Funicolare (3rd form of transportation for the day) up to the top of Capri and strolled the shops and lanes and visited the church. It was a bonus to spend time in the boutiques where the rich and famous shop. It appears that purple and hundreds of various shades of mauve/magenta/hot pink is the colour for men and women for the upcoming European winter.
And tomorrow we are off again – to Rome - out last big city location before Dubai and arriving home Wednesday night (9sleeps) but i am looking forward to seeing the Sistine chapel and especially the creation when God charged Adam with life through his finger.
Our Amalfi Coast
Today started out with a lovely big breakfast whilst watching the soccer show = the footy show – all of their counterparts were there: Lou Richards, Jack Dyer, Brian Taylor, etc – except the show seems to go 24 hours. Then we headed out to try our luck with the public transport system. Just a couple of observations: the conversion rate for Italian minutes = somewhere between 10 – 15 Aussie minutes, yep, Italian minutes are big, fat, lazy minutes – ya gotta love ‘em and do not depend on the signage – just ask and keep asking people “dove?” and “quando?” and eventually you get there.
We were in luck, our first and second connections timed perfectly – along the way we bought two x 6Euro bus & train 24hour coast passes which we used as follows: 22kilometre trip to Amalfi where 3rd connection(for the day) was waiting to take us 16kilometres to Positano and a further 17km to Sorrento (total time of trip from Salerno to Sorrento = 3hours) where we had a bite to eat before catching a ferry to Capri (the cost of the ferry to Capri was additional to our bus & rail pass) – then when we returned from Capri to Sorrento we caught a train to Pompeii, then connected with a minute to spare with a train back to Salerno and a final bus trip back to our hotel at about 9.45pm. A fantastic day – but the highlight for both of us was the incredible and spectacular 3hour bus ride which makes the Great Ocean Road look like an empty 6 lane highway.
Imagine a constantly twining road with endless blind turns - at which the bus driver hooted his approach on roads which were quite often too narrow for two vehicles to pass – so that either the bus or the other vehicle had to reverse until a wider or straighter patch of road could be found, with traffic controllers on walkie talkies to each other at about 20 spots along the way, taking it in turns to halt traffic from proceeding in one or the other direction, all happening high up steep vertical cliffs (sometimes 500ft up), sometimes on patches of roads which were wider than the natural footing allowed and Italian engineers had somehow built bridges and supports to allow the road to overlap into space a metre or so in some places, driven by obviously ex air-fighter pilots who had flown the absolute maximum number of bombing raids in one war or another and this was the closest they could get to the thrill of dodging enemy fire up in the air – the drivers were amazing, only ever slowing down to a crawl when they had less than a centimetre clearance on both sides (the rock face or cliff-drop and the other vehicle), they had absolutely no fear as they careered around corners sometimes in the rain (the bus nearly fish tailing around the bends) straight into the path of on-coming motorbikes/ vespers, cars, buses, bicyclists, pedestrians, whatever – the rule to stay on the right side of the road id disregarded (probably because there is not enough road for 2 vehicles in most places). However, after a while the beautiful amazing views of the Mediterranean and incredible buildings hanging onto the cliff faces were more enjoyable than leaning into every corner and banging on an imaginary horn in sync with the bus driver.
But the main lesson learnt today was that we have to take a chance and we took the chance that, in spite of some advice to the contrary, to go to Capri to see the Blue Grotto or Grotto Azzurro – however on arrival the ticket office was closed due to inclement weather and unfavourable conditions – no Blue Grotto today. So we took the Funicolare (3rd form of transportation for the day) up to the top of Capri and strolled the shops and lanes and visited the church. It was a bonus to spend time in the boutiques where the rich and famous shop. It appears that purple and hundreds of various shades of mauve/magenta/hot pink is the colour for men and women for the upcoming European winter.
And tomorrow we are off again – to Rome - out last big city location before Dubai and arriving home Wednesday night (9sleeps) but i am looking forward to seeing the Sistine chapel and especially the creation when God charged Adam with life through his finger.
Monday, October 12, 2009
Pompei Scavi
Sunday 11 October
Pompei
Absolutely fantastic! We have had the most brilliant day. Pompei is magnificent. We spent hours and hours and hours wandering the excavations and imagining life in 79AD. The site is huge – 66 hectares, of which 50 have been excavated, and a boundary of 3.2 kilometres (which we covered at least 20 times!) I guess I knew it was a town, but to see it – streets, houses, shops, temples, public buildings – I was astounded. It is hard to imagine that a whole city and all its inhabitants were obliterated in a matter of hours when Vesuvio erupted. We saw everything that was open –some houses were closed for perhaps, renovations(?) It was fascinating and just a bit sad and poignant, particularly when we saw the casts of the bodies. One was a pregnant woman who was shielding her tummy and covering her face. The excavations have been going on since 1748 and there is still a large area to be worked on, although it has been known about since 16th century. we explored gardens, 1st century fast food, theatres, and temples, even teh brothel -I had never been in one before, so that was exciting!
Pompei was one of my “must sees” in Italy and I am so glad we have made the trip.
One surprising aspect of the day was trying to find the site. There is very little information around and very few signs indicating the location of Pompei Scavi. We asked three or four people who were very helpful but a bit vague about the site’s location. It’s right in the town, and we only detected two signs, one while we still on the bus, about 3 kms away. We took the local bus from Salerno to Pompei and what good value that was! $1:60 for a scenic drive along the coast, through the towns and under the shadow of Vesuvio. The train home was much quicker, and much less scenic.
The day was topped off when we were waiting on the station for the train back to Salerno and two women started chatting with us. We spent a good 40 minutes conversing in Italian and brushed up on some of our lessons. One of them has a boutique and invited us to come tomorrow so I can say, “Voglio comprare un portafolio” (I want to buy a small handbag”). I’ll try to take up the offer!
Pompei
Absolutely fantastic! We have had the most brilliant day. Pompei is magnificent. We spent hours and hours and hours wandering the excavations and imagining life in 79AD. The site is huge – 66 hectares, of which 50 have been excavated, and a boundary of 3.2 kilometres (which we covered at least 20 times!) I guess I knew it was a town, but to see it – streets, houses, shops, temples, public buildings – I was astounded. It is hard to imagine that a whole city and all its inhabitants were obliterated in a matter of hours when Vesuvio erupted. We saw everything that was open –some houses were closed for perhaps, renovations(?) It was fascinating and just a bit sad and poignant, particularly when we saw the casts of the bodies. One was a pregnant woman who was shielding her tummy and covering her face. The excavations have been going on since 1748 and there is still a large area to be worked on, although it has been known about since 16th century. we explored gardens, 1st century fast food, theatres, and temples, even teh brothel -I had never been in one before, so that was exciting!
Pompei was one of my “must sees” in Italy and I am so glad we have made the trip.
One surprising aspect of the day was trying to find the site. There is very little information around and very few signs indicating the location of Pompei Scavi. We asked three or four people who were very helpful but a bit vague about the site’s location. It’s right in the town, and we only detected two signs, one while we still on the bus, about 3 kms away. We took the local bus from Salerno to Pompei and what good value that was! $1:60 for a scenic drive along the coast, through the towns and under the shadow of Vesuvio. The train home was much quicker, and much less scenic.
The day was topped off when we were waiting on the station for the train back to Salerno and two women started chatting with us. We spent a good 40 minutes conversing in Italian and brushed up on some of our lessons. One of them has a boutique and invited us to come tomorrow so I can say, “Voglio comprare un portafolio” (I want to buy a small handbag”). I’ll try to take up the offer!
Saturday, October 10, 2009
Siena Day 3
Friday 9th October
Siena Day 3
Going Postal and Relics
There’s a lot to love about Italy, but their post offices are not one of them. Actually, the post offices are OK, the staff are particularly unhelpful. In Florence we tried to buy a box to post some stuff home. In France, there is a supervisor roaming the post office asking to help you. In Italy, you take a ticket for one of three different services, which are not explained, so we take one of each, just to cover all contingencies. After you take a ticket, be prepared for at least a 15 minute wait. Eventually a number comes up and you hasten to the appropriate window, and wait while you are being ignored by the person behind the counter. In Florence we bought a box, but were unable to buy tape or string and there does not appear to be pre-paid boxes for international post as was in France. In Pisa we bought tape and actually the woman in the post shop there was very nice. In La Spezia we took the parcel to the post office, arriving at opening time (huh!) and when it was eventually our turn and presented the parcel to be posted, explaining it was going to Australia and would need a customs declaration (in well practised Italian) she just stared at us and stared at the parcel as if she had never seen such a thing before. She then looked disgusted at us and the parcel and then stared at the customs declaration form and turned it over several times, as if she had never seen it before, even though she was able to put her hand on it on the shelf on her desk. Oh, the looks we received when she realised she had to get off her seat and weigh the parcel. She then just stopped serving us and called then next customer. A lengthy conversation between four staff ensued and eventually another woman came and was quite helpful. We eventually handed over the parcel, but I have no confidence that I will ever see it again. There are lots of beautiful souvenirs and gifts that may or may not arrive back at Maple Street.
Who is the patron saint of postal service? He /she needs to buck up! And it’s not the workers who “go postal” in Italy, it’s the customers. Today was no better when I tried buying three stamps. You would think three stamps would be a fairly painless task, but at one stage I thought she was going to call the Carbinieri. There were a couple of American women who walked in with boxes to be posted – I stifled an hysterical laugh and just wished them the best of luck!
Today’s highlight was the Basilica San Domenico, which house the relics of Saint Catherine. What relics? – just her HEAD and right index finger. I thought they would be locked away out of sight – silly me! – There they were in gorgeous glass cabinets on display. Very gruesome, bizarre and strangely compelling and intriguing. I can’t help but wonder if after all her self flagellation, St Catherine might have wished for her head and body to remain together after death. But then, if one undergoes self inflicted pain on a daily basis, what is 500 miles of space between her head and body (which is housed in Rome). I will be on the lookout for it when we get there.
Siena Day 3
Going Postal and Relics
There’s a lot to love about Italy, but their post offices are not one of them. Actually, the post offices are OK, the staff are particularly unhelpful. In Florence we tried to buy a box to post some stuff home. In France, there is a supervisor roaming the post office asking to help you. In Italy, you take a ticket for one of three different services, which are not explained, so we take one of each, just to cover all contingencies. After you take a ticket, be prepared for at least a 15 minute wait. Eventually a number comes up and you hasten to the appropriate window, and wait while you are being ignored by the person behind the counter. In Florence we bought a box, but were unable to buy tape or string and there does not appear to be pre-paid boxes for international post as was in France. In Pisa we bought tape and actually the woman in the post shop there was very nice. In La Spezia we took the parcel to the post office, arriving at opening time (huh!) and when it was eventually our turn and presented the parcel to be posted, explaining it was going to Australia and would need a customs declaration (in well practised Italian) she just stared at us and stared at the parcel as if she had never seen such a thing before. She then looked disgusted at us and the parcel and then stared at the customs declaration form and turned it over several times, as if she had never seen it before, even though she was able to put her hand on it on the shelf on her desk. Oh, the looks we received when she realised she had to get off her seat and weigh the parcel. She then just stopped serving us and called then next customer. A lengthy conversation between four staff ensued and eventually another woman came and was quite helpful. We eventually handed over the parcel, but I have no confidence that I will ever see it again. There are lots of beautiful souvenirs and gifts that may or may not arrive back at Maple Street.
Who is the patron saint of postal service? He /she needs to buck up! And it’s not the workers who “go postal” in Italy, it’s the customers. Today was no better when I tried buying three stamps. You would think three stamps would be a fairly painless task, but at one stage I thought she was going to call the Carbinieri. There were a couple of American women who walked in with boxes to be posted – I stifled an hysterical laugh and just wished them the best of luck!
Today’s highlight was the Basilica San Domenico, which house the relics of Saint Catherine. What relics? – just her HEAD and right index finger. I thought they would be locked away out of sight – silly me! – There they were in gorgeous glass cabinets on display. Very gruesome, bizarre and strangely compelling and intriguing. I can’t help but wonder if after all her self flagellation, St Catherine might have wished for her head and body to remain together after death. But then, if one undergoes self inflicted pain on a daily basis, what is 500 miles of space between her head and body (which is housed in Rome). I will be on the lookout for it when we get there.
Friday, October 9, 2009
Siena
Siena
Thursday 8th October
Yep the day started with 4 different sets of Bells taking it in turn to chime out every 15 minutes so it became one long jam session from about 7.30 – 8.30 accompanied by a perfectly lovely view from our windows of the slowly lifting shroud of mist. Then a perfect shower followed by a delicious breakfast with big cups of coffee, ham n cheese and fruit, beautiful background music before heading to the duomo/cathedral.
As it turns out this activity was the best value for money yet – 10euro each provided entry into 5 separate buildings – the cathedral itself was bizarrely ornate with square inch was ornately decorated to within an inch of its life – a gothic structure made out of dark green and white marble- marble columns reaching to the ceiling with 6inch bands of white and green marble – a very striking example of the opposite to minimalist – where it seems that yes, more is definitely more. The floors were covered with about a 24 giant drawings made from inlaid marble which we were lucky to see because they spend most of the year covered up – statues by Donatello and Michelangelo, giant old incredibly decorated 15th century choir - songbooks/manuscripts, frescoes, incredibly intricate carved furniture and statuary – every visitor had to sit down at some point in just plain wonder at all this work, and attempts to create beauty , find truth, pay homage all in the name of God.
The church would have been value enough but then there was: the Crypt, the Baptistery, the Museum of the Works - with the best panoramic/iconic view of Tuscany one could ever hope for on top of what looks like the remains of some wall and archway and finally the Oratory of S Bernardino – yet to be explored. We ran out of time as Mary had a hair appointment at 3.30 and we had been on the go for about 5 hours as it was. And as it with all these wonderful historic places there was one bonus after another but the best for Mary was the number of reliquaries in the Museum of the Works – there even appeared to be full skeletons with the bones artfully rearranged and decorated to fit in bejewelled glass cases.
Thursday 8th October
Yep the day started with 4 different sets of Bells taking it in turn to chime out every 15 minutes so it became one long jam session from about 7.30 – 8.30 accompanied by a perfectly lovely view from our windows of the slowly lifting shroud of mist. Then a perfect shower followed by a delicious breakfast with big cups of coffee, ham n cheese and fruit, beautiful background music before heading to the duomo/cathedral.
As it turns out this activity was the best value for money yet – 10euro each provided entry into 5 separate buildings – the cathedral itself was bizarrely ornate with square inch was ornately decorated to within an inch of its life – a gothic structure made out of dark green and white marble- marble columns reaching to the ceiling with 6inch bands of white and green marble – a very striking example of the opposite to minimalist – where it seems that yes, more is definitely more. The floors were covered with about a 24 giant drawings made from inlaid marble which we were lucky to see because they spend most of the year covered up – statues by Donatello and Michelangelo, giant old incredibly decorated 15th century choir - songbooks/manuscripts, frescoes, incredibly intricate carved furniture and statuary – every visitor had to sit down at some point in just plain wonder at all this work, and attempts to create beauty , find truth, pay homage all in the name of God.
The church would have been value enough but then there was: the Crypt, the Baptistery, the Museum of the Works - with the best panoramic/iconic view of Tuscany one could ever hope for on top of what looks like the remains of some wall and archway and finally the Oratory of S Bernardino – yet to be explored. We ran out of time as Mary had a hair appointment at 3.30 and we had been on the go for about 5 hours as it was. And as it with all these wonderful historic places there was one bonus after another but the best for Mary was the number of reliquaries in the Museum of the Works – there even appeared to be full skeletons with the bones artfully rearranged and decorated to fit in bejewelled glass cases.
Siena
Wednesday 7th October
La Spezia to Siena
We left La Spezia (with a very touching farewell from the proprietors – kisses on each cheek from the 73 year old surrealist artist (A Ghioni) who painted murals all over the rooms and his wife/muse/model maybe sometime and wife Diana) at 9.00 am to catch the train - the two connections at Pisa and Empoli went smoothly and my concerns about the Italian train system were unfounded and we arrived at our hotel in Siena at 2.30. The Palazzo Bruchi B&B and Siena is a brilliant surprise. On the train trip here we kept ourselves amused by compiling ten top ten lists of our holiday so far : best location, best views, best excursions, best accommodation, best gallery/museum, best church/cathedral/chapel/basilica/abbey, best palace/castle/fort/chateau, best WOW moment, best restaurant, best food and so far – I am sure we will vote Siena to be top of the list in at least 6 categories – but there is still Salerno/Amalfi Coast/Pompeii and Rome to go, haha.
The proprietor Carmilla greeted us and every thing was perfectly organised – apparently she rents out 6 apartments in the Palazzo as B&Bs – her lodgings where we have breakfast are beautiful with the full works: gold filigree high domed ceilings with frescoes, big wide marble floorways and hallways, old paintings and dressers with Le Sevre crockery maybe to fill the empty spaces. Our apartments are tastefully decorated and want for nothing, with 3 large windows and shutters which open onto a magnificent courtyard where the families play before dinner. The view extends over an old stone wall and parks and gardens towards the ancient city boundary walls - arising in the distance OUT OF THE EARLY MORNING MISTS , all very magical - definitley a 10+.
We went on an exploratory tour of the medieval city with the most, largest and tallest medieval buildings we’ve seen so far, with the best views, best little lane-ways which spiral up n down, best square - full of university students soaking up the sun lying on the red bricks (cars HAVE BEEN BANNED FROM THE HEART OF THE CITY SINCE 1966) so it is safe and comfortable to wander about. It is a university town and there is an atmosphere of youth and energy and a lovely sense that they take themselves seriously (maybe Nicko could study fine arts here for a semester or two) – even Mary considers Siena to be equal to, if not a more pleasant and perfect than Venice. After a great meal and bottle on chianti at a restaurant recommended by Carmilla – where she and the locals frequent, we fell asleep on our perfectly lovely king sized, firm and exactly just right cotton quilted beds.
La Spezia to Siena
We left La Spezia (with a very touching farewell from the proprietors – kisses on each cheek from the 73 year old surrealist artist (A Ghioni) who painted murals all over the rooms and his wife/muse/model maybe sometime and wife Diana) at 9.00 am to catch the train - the two connections at Pisa and Empoli went smoothly and my concerns about the Italian train system were unfounded and we arrived at our hotel in Siena at 2.30. The Palazzo Bruchi B&B and Siena is a brilliant surprise. On the train trip here we kept ourselves amused by compiling ten top ten lists of our holiday so far : best location, best views, best excursions, best accommodation, best gallery/museum, best church/cathedral/chapel/basilica/abbey, best palace/castle/fort/chateau, best WOW moment, best restaurant, best food and so far – I am sure we will vote Siena to be top of the list in at least 6 categories – but there is still Salerno/Amalfi Coast/Pompeii and Rome to go, haha.
The proprietor Carmilla greeted us and every thing was perfectly organised – apparently she rents out 6 apartments in the Palazzo as B&Bs – her lodgings where we have breakfast are beautiful with the full works: gold filigree high domed ceilings with frescoes, big wide marble floorways and hallways, old paintings and dressers with Le Sevre crockery maybe to fill the empty spaces. Our apartments are tastefully decorated and want for nothing, with 3 large windows and shutters which open onto a magnificent courtyard where the families play before dinner. The view extends over an old stone wall and parks and gardens towards the ancient city boundary walls - arising in the distance OUT OF THE EARLY MORNING MISTS , all very magical - definitley a 10+.
We went on an exploratory tour of the medieval city with the most, largest and tallest medieval buildings we’ve seen so far, with the best views, best little lane-ways which spiral up n down, best square - full of university students soaking up the sun lying on the red bricks (cars HAVE BEEN BANNED FROM THE HEART OF THE CITY SINCE 1966) so it is safe and comfortable to wander about. It is a university town and there is an atmosphere of youth and energy and a lovely sense that they take themselves seriously (maybe Nicko could study fine arts here for a semester or two) – even Mary considers Siena to be equal to, if not a more pleasant and perfect than Venice. After a great meal and bottle on chianti at a restaurant recommended by Carmilla – where she and the locals frequent, we fell asleep on our perfectly lovely king sized, firm and exactly just right cotton quilted beds.
Thursday, October 8, 2009
Cinque Terre
Tuesday 6th October
Cinque Terre
Day 2 La Spezia started a bit groggily but we made it through the lovely warm light rain to the harbour just in time to catch a boat to Cinque Terre for a two hour ride to Monterossa, the 5th seaside hamlet/village which form a chain and a precipitous walk that attracts the tourists. The terraced cliff sides are monumental and spectacular from sea and land. But Mary and i and thousands of others asked the same question, “WHY” – why did those crazy Italians build their homes and tiny orchards, olive groves and other farms on such difficult steep land? For the view?
When we landed Mary and I realised we had been hijacked – there was no boat going back for 3 hours – or else catch a train (the railroad HAD BEEN DRILLED THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS – again we wondered “why?” and who did the cost benefit analysis? – but who are we to ask these questions of the Italians who must be the masters/geniuses of the tourism game: Venice flooded by water, Florence flooded by empty redundant Palaces, Pisa’s falling tower all bringing in buckets of money, we are mere pawns in their game). As we had paid for a return trip by boat we decided we would walk to Vernazza, town #4 on the tourist trail and catch the boat from there (get some exercise, enjoy the splendid views, fill up some spare time, work off last night’s great dinner). Haha, the walk was a bit more challenging than we thought – with extremely steep narrow climbs and big sheer drops most of the way. We were told it will take somewhere b/n 1.30 – 2.30 hours and we did it in just over 1.30 so that was good. It was a lovely feeling arriving in Vernazza just in time to eat an ice-cream and catch the boat – buzzing with adrenalin and dopamine - everything looked marvellous, we were lovely – on a natural high. But then reality hit us again as the boat did not take us all the way back to La Spezia but deposited us in Porto Venere for an hour – as a totally unnecessary stopover – but the shopkeepers were happy as 100’s of lost and vaguely wondering tourists purchased foccaccia and drinks whilst filling in more time. It is at times like this when I start to feel that the whole overseas trip is really just another way of standing in a very long queue with a constantly changing view. We are always waiting to arrive, see, eat, sleep and then progress to the next stop.
However, eventually we got home, rested up and went out to the next restaurant recommended by our very kind friendly hosts – which to our surprise was the best quality and value meal of the whole holiday so far. A very big surprise because there was no menu and we ordered from a list read out by the waitress. Over dinner we discussed our top ten hotels, activities, meals, locations, hotel staff, waiters, etc. so far and then went home to get an early night so we are fresh to do battle with the Italian train system tomorrow as we make for Siena.
Cinque Terre
Day 2 La Spezia started a bit groggily but we made it through the lovely warm light rain to the harbour just in time to catch a boat to Cinque Terre for a two hour ride to Monterossa, the 5th seaside hamlet/village which form a chain and a precipitous walk that attracts the tourists. The terraced cliff sides are monumental and spectacular from sea and land. But Mary and i and thousands of others asked the same question, “WHY” – why did those crazy Italians build their homes and tiny orchards, olive groves and other farms on such difficult steep land? For the view?
When we landed Mary and I realised we had been hijacked – there was no boat going back for 3 hours – or else catch a train (the railroad HAD BEEN DRILLED THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS – again we wondered “why?” and who did the cost benefit analysis? – but who are we to ask these questions of the Italians who must be the masters/geniuses of the tourism game: Venice flooded by water, Florence flooded by empty redundant Palaces, Pisa’s falling tower all bringing in buckets of money, we are mere pawns in their game). As we had paid for a return trip by boat we decided we would walk to Vernazza, town #4 on the tourist trail and catch the boat from there (get some exercise, enjoy the splendid views, fill up some spare time, work off last night’s great dinner). Haha, the walk was a bit more challenging than we thought – with extremely steep narrow climbs and big sheer drops most of the way. We were told it will take somewhere b/n 1.30 – 2.30 hours and we did it in just over 1.30 so that was good. It was a lovely feeling arriving in Vernazza just in time to eat an ice-cream and catch the boat – buzzing with adrenalin and dopamine - everything looked marvellous, we were lovely – on a natural high. But then reality hit us again as the boat did not take us all the way back to La Spezia but deposited us in Porto Venere for an hour – as a totally unnecessary stopover – but the shopkeepers were happy as 100’s of lost and vaguely wondering tourists purchased foccaccia and drinks whilst filling in more time. It is at times like this when I start to feel that the whole overseas trip is really just another way of standing in a very long queue with a constantly changing view. We are always waiting to arrive, see, eat, sleep and then progress to the next stop.
However, eventually we got home, rested up and went out to the next restaurant recommended by our very kind friendly hosts – which to our surprise was the best quality and value meal of the whole holiday so far. A very big surprise because there was no menu and we ordered from a list read out by the waitress. Over dinner we discussed our top ten hotels, activities, meals, locations, hotel staff, waiters, etc. so far and then went home to get an early night so we are fresh to do battle with the Italian train system tomorrow as we make for Siena.
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